ANGORA RABBITS: An Introduction
Angora rabbits are not only a source of enjoyment and quiet companionship;
they are also the source of a wool that is incredibly soft and warm. Handspun
into fine durable yarn, it is seven times warmer than sheeps' wool and so light
that it provides warmth without weight. Angora wool is continuously renewed
and gently harvested during the rabbit's natural molting process, thus, the
Angora rabbit need never be harmed for its wool.
Before you buy any stock, and before you decide to make the personal and financial
commitments required to successfully raise Angora rabbits, take the time to
visit and talk with those breeders actively raising rabbits, and, if you can,
those who no longer do. Learn as much as you can before you get involved.
In your search for a breeder, look for a reputable one - one who shows concern
for the rabbit's health and contentment. Work only with a breeder who is willing
to give you information and support.
Depending upon your interests (pet, show, or wooling stock) look for a breeder
whose rabbits live in healthy, comfortable surroundings. Hold a rabbit to feel
its muscle tone, which should be firm; its weight, which will vary with type
and age of the rabbit; its general condition (it should exhibit a healthy,
uniform coat, bright eyes, and clear breathing); and inspect it for ear mites
and encrusted ears, a runny nose and sneezing, weepy eyes, crooked teeth, difficulty
in moving, and listlessness. It will be easier for you to assess or judge the
rabbit that you intend to purchase if you visit rabbitries or attend rabbit
shows beforehand.
SUPPLIES
Should you make the decision to raise these enchanting and personable animals,
you will need to invest in equipment, materials, and supplies before you bring
your rabbit home. Housing must provide protection from the weather and animals
and must be maintained in a sanitary manner to ensure your rabbit's good health.
Wire cages are recommended because they are easy to keep clean and sanitary.
Routine wire brushing to remove droppings, urine deposits, and wool buildup,
combined with occasional washings with a disinfectant (dilute chlorine bleach
solution), and firing the wire with a propane torch will keep the cage clean.
To provide easy access and protection from animals, cages should be hung at
least three feet from the ground. Provide shelter against drafts and precipitation
in wooden hutches or in a shed or barn. Good air circulation is also needed
- ventilation is crucial because it removes odor, moisture, and heat.
Feeders are also needed. The two most popular types are (1) the snap-on metal "J-type" feeders
with screen bottoms that sift fines from the feed and (2) the heavy-duty, chew-resistant
crocks. These crocks may also be used for waterers, as can water bottles with
ball-tip "straws." Any and all such equipment must be routinely cleaned
and sanitized.
HEALTH
Healthy stock, properly housed and fed, are those most likely to remain in
good health. Routine inoculations are not required nor is routine medication
except in extenuating circumstances, as, for example, during shows, stress,
and disease outbreaks.
Angora rabbits are particularly prone to wool block. Symptoms include a decrease
in the size and amount of droppings, going "off-feed," and if left
untreated, failure to thrive or death. Treatment includes enzymes like papain
or bromelain, restricting pellet feed, and increasing exercise until the condition
clears. Prevention is the best route - do not overfeed your rabbit and maintain
its grooming schedule.
Stress is a generalized condition that can cause a number of health problems
in rabbits. Treatment should begin with an attempt to identify and correct,
as much as possible, the source of stress, which might include a change in
temperature, in environmental conditions, or in routine. Rabbits thrive on
routine and schedule. Be consistent and calm, and your rabbit will benefit.
Avoid abrupt changes. A healthy and well-cared-for animal will tolerate gradual
changes. (more comprehensive discussions of rabbit diseases can be found in
a number of other sources, some of which are listed near the end of this pamphlet.)
NUTRITION
Closely associated with rabbit health is the subject of rabbit nutrition.
A rabbit's digestive system is quite different from that of many other domestic
animals. They are able to store portions of feed in their system where internal
bacteria will ferment the ration into the nutrients needed for activity and
growth. Indigestible roughage passes quickly through the system and does not
provide nutrients. It is important not to overfeed a rabbit; fat rabbits are
not healthy and tend to have difficulty breeding.
Young rabbits should not have lettuce, cabbage, and greens as they cause diarrhea.
While practices vary, it is known that Angora rabbits can thrive on 4 ounces
(by weight) of a commercial rabbit feed containing 18% to 20% protein, usually
alfalfa-based. If treats are given, it is best to give them on a regular basis
and not more than twice a week. Limit choices to low-moisture foods (apple
twigs, carrots, .bread cubes, oats, unsweetened cereal, seeds, and nuts) and
do not give them too much. Feeding large amounts of treats cuts down on the
amount of pelleted feed the rabbit should be consuming to provide energy for
growth and protein for wool.
To keep their digestive system in good working condition, it is recommended
that a handful of clean, dust- and weed-free hay be given daily to each rabbit.
This hay is meant for roughage and need not be of high nutritional quality.
Water is an extremely important component of rabbit nutrition. Fresh water
should be given daily and replenished as needed. Rabbits will not eat if they
do not have enough water to drink.
GROOMING AND HARVESTING
Remember that rabbits are nocturnal animals, thus their activity is stretched
out over a 24-hour period. For that reason, it will probably be wise to "tend
to" your rabbits trore than once a day. Regularity in schedule and procedure
will not only keep your Angora healthy, your close attention to the animal
will let you know when it is out of sorts, generally exhibited by a change
in behavior.
Once your Angora rabbit is eight weeks old, its coat will have begun its regular
Molting process. There is usually an 8-10 week interval between harvests. Between
these harvests some grooming should be done. You will need a wide-toothed metal
dog comb, a small pair of scissors, guillotine-like dog nail clippers, and
a puppy slicker brush. With these tools you can comb or slice out mats that
might have developed in the coat, keep the growing coat free of tangles, clip
long toenails (hold nail between your thumb and finger, don't clip too close
to the quick), and brush dirt from the coat, and your clothes. Many Angora
rabbit raisers prefer to hold the rabbit when grooming and harvesting; others
prefer to use a grooming stand. To check for developing mats, each week run
your hand over your rabbit's coat. Take steps to remove these mats quickly
before they continue to grow.
Do, however, avoid excessive handling and combing since it may cause uneven
coat growth.
The prime form of Angora wool is the mature, ripe fibers that are naturally
released or shed by the rabbit and plucked by the groomer. It is wise to separate
any soiled or matted wool from the high-quality wool which is ready to be spun
as it is harvested from the rabbit.
When storing wool, try to keep as much loft or air between the fibers as possible.
Try not to compress the wool and avoid extremes in temperature and excessive
humidity. Pressure, heat, and moisture will produce felt or matted wool. Keep
wool in smooth-surfaced containers like covered waste cans (metal or rigid
plastic waste cans) or smooth, nonpasteboard-type cardboard boxes. Avoid plastic
bags and if the wool must be stored for long periods of time, consider adding
cedar or camphor moth repellent.
BREEDING
The first rule in breeding rabbits is "don't, unless you are prepared
to live with the consequences." That may mean finding good homes for young
bunnies, housing them yourself, or culling if necessary.
The gestation period averages 31 days. Before breeding, the doe should be groomed
and cleaned, especially around her tail. She is then taken to the buck's cage.
Does are usually too territorial to allow bucks in their cages without fighting.
Once it has begun, mating occurs very quickly.
About three days before the expected kindling date, a nest box should be placed
in the doe ‘ s cage. These may be made of metal or wood and must be clean
and sanitary, with no residual odors that the doe might find offensive. Several
inches of clean bedding, made of straw or wood shavings, for example, should
be put in the nest box. The doe will use these shavings, along with wool she
will pull from herself, to make a nest for her young, know as kits. The average
litter size is five to seven.
It is best to leave the nest box alone for the first day when the mother will
be under stress. Later, check to see that the bunnies are not tangled in any
pieces of bedding or wool and remove any that may have died. The mother will
normally nurse her young once or twice a day, and as long as the bunnies are
together in the nest, the indications are pretty good that all is well with
the litter. The bunnies will use the nest box for at least four weeks, or until
the time that they have their own wool coats and are able to get in and out
of the nest box on their own. It is wise to clean out the nest box and put
in new bedding about two weeks after kindling. Once the bunnies are able to
get around the cage, remove the nest box permanently to prevent the mother
and her young from excessively soiling the nest box.
Most mothers will wean their young by the time they are eight weeks of age
at which time many breeders put the young in separate cages. But others prefer
to leave the babies with the mother until they are twelve weeks old, feeling
that this added time under maternal influence helps the young overcome the
eventual stress in going on their own.
Angoras are sexually mature by six months of age. It is usually best not to
breed them until after that age, allowing them maximum physiological development.
Written by Bonnie Fortini for Maine Angora Producers
Copyright 1990